Reykjavík: Landmannalaugar Hike and the Valley of Tears

Landmannalaugar is the sort of place that makes a long day on rough roads worthwhile: brightly colored rhyolite peaks rise above black obsidian, steam curls from hot ground, and a natural pool offers a warm finish to a hike. This 11-hour trip from Reykjavík also visits Hjálparfoss and Sigöldugljúfur, the canyon often called the Valley of Tears.

I like the combination of a guided hike with time to choose your own pace and the chance to bathe in the hot pool afterward. I also like that the route includes two very different waterfall stops, giving you more than one taste of the Highlands.

The main trade-off is the drive. The route is long, and the Highland roads can be very bumpy, so this is not a restful bus day. Bring layers, a swimsuit, a towel, and something to eat, and consider motion-sickness medicine if rough roads affect you.

• Laugahraun’s black obsidian formed in a 1477 eruption. Its glassy volcanic rock is sharp-edged and often nicknamed Dragon Glass.
• Brennisteinsalda’s colors come from rhyolite and minerals including iron and sulphur. The mountain’s name means Sulphur Wave.
• The hot pool is part of the day’s appeal. Pack swimwear and a towel so you can warm up after hiking.
• Sigöldugljúfur is a waterfall canyon, with clear streams, small ponds, and many falls tucked among its cliffs.
• The road is part of the adventure. A four-wheel-drive vehicle reaches Highland routes that ordinary cars cannot use, but expect bumps.
• You get time to choose. At Landmannalaugar, join the guided hike, try another route, or spend longer at the pool within the group’s allotted stop.

The road into Iceland’s Highlands

This is a full-day outing from Reykjavík, with pickup beginning around 7:30 a.m. The minibus may take up to 30 minutes to reach your stop, depending on where it starts, so be ready at the stated time and keep your phone on. The operator needs to be able to contact you if it cannot find you.

The journey is not just a transfer to a trailhead. The vehicle takes you into the Highlands on roads that require four-wheel drive, and the changing terrain is part of the experience. Expect gravel and uneven stretches, not a smooth highway ride. A few people have found the back seats cramped or the engine noise distracting, so if you have a choice, avoid sitting at the very back.

The tour lasts about 11 hours, with coach legs listed at roughly two hours each. That is a substantial amount of time in the vehicle, but the stops break up the day. The small-group format can also make it easier for the guide to adjust the pace or answer questions than on a large coach tour.

The ride can be hard on a sensitive stomach. If winding or bumpy roads tend to make you feel ill, bring any motion-sickness remedy you normally use. Some visitors have also encountered animals or other delays on Highland roads, so keep a little flexibility in your plans after the tour.

Hjálparfoss: a first Highland waterfall

The first listed stop is Hjálparfoss, a twin waterfall that drops into a broad pool surrounded by unusual basalt formations. It is a compact stop, but a good introduction to the day’s mix of water, volcanic rock, and open country.

The name means Help’s Fall. The nearby area, Hjálp, was a welcome place for people crossing the harsh Sprengisandur route between northern and southern Iceland. After a difficult journey through a barren region, they could find grass for their horses here. That simple bit of history gives the waterfall a human dimension: it was not only a pretty sight, but a practical relief on a demanding crossing.

Expect time for photos, a short walk, and a look at the rock formations. It is a brief pause rather than a major hike, so save your energy for Landmannalaugar.

Landmannalaugar: obsidian, rhyolite, and walking choices

Landmannalaugar lies in the Fjallabak Nature Reserve, in Iceland’s remote Highlands. Volcanic activity shaped the area over thousands of years, leaving lava fields, hot springs, and mountains colored by mineral-rich rock. The scenery can feel almost unreal, but the geology explains the effect.

The Laugahraun lava field formed during an eruption in 1477. Its black obsidian has a smooth, glass-like appearance and sharp edges. The material’s popular Dragon Glass nickname is a useful way to remember what you are looking at, but treat the rock as natural glass: admire it, and watch your footing around broken pieces.

The guided hike takes about two hours and leads through the obsidian field toward Brennisteinsalda, or Sulphur Wave. Rhyolite, a volcanic rock rich in quartz and silica, provides a base for the mountain’s varied colors; minerals such as iron and sulphur add to the effect. Small hot springs near the mountain send up steam, another reminder that this is an active volcanic region.

The hike is described as suitable for beginners, and one person who considered themself sedentary found it manageable. Still, it is a hike, not a paved stroll. Wear proper hiking shoes and outdoor clothing, and be ready for weather that can change the feel of the walk. Rain and strong wind have made some people decide to skip the trail and stay near the hot pool instead.

You do not have to follow the guide’s exact route. You can take another trail or stay in the Landmannalaugar area during the allotted stop, which is generally more than three hours. Some departures have allowed around four hours, but the precise time can vary. That flexibility is valuable: you can make the walk your priority, take more photo breaks, or save your energy for a longer soak.

A few experienced hikers have managed both Brennisteinsalda and Bláhnúkur during a longer stop, but do not plan on that unless your guide confirms the available time and conditions. For most people, the guided two-hour outing plus a relaxed pool visit is a satisfying use of the stop.

The natural pool: a welcome warm-up

After the walk, the natural hot pool is an inviting place to rest. It is not an extra excursion or a separate destination; it is right there in Landmannalaugar, making it easy to end the hike with a soak. Bring your swimsuit and towel, since neither is included.

The pool is one of the tour’s strongest practical features. Highland weather can be wet, windy, or both, and warming up after walking makes the day feel less like a test of endurance. If you would rather not hike, you can spend more of your stop in the area and at the pool, subject to the group’s schedule.

Do not assume you will have unlimited time in the water. The day has other stops and a long return drive, so be ready to follow the guide’s timing. Pack your swimsuit where you can reach it without rummaging through your whole daypack.

Sigöldugljúfur: the Valley of Tears

On the route back, the tour stops at Sigöldugljúfur, a canyon in Rangárþing ytra known as the Valley of Tears. Small spring-fed streams, clear waterfalls, ponds, colorful plant life, and steep cliffs give it a different character from the broad, open slopes around Landmannalaugar.

This is a scenic stop for looking and taking photographs, not a second major hike. The many small falls make the canyon feel intricate, and the water adds a striking contrast to the surrounding rock. If you are choosing where to spend your attention, take time to look beyond the first viewpoint. The small streams and pools are part of what makes the place distinctive.

For some, the canyon is the day’s highlight; for others, Landmannalaugar is the main event. That contrast is part of the value. You get a strenuous, volcanic setting at one stop and a water-filled canyon at another, rather than spending the entire day in one type of scenery.

Guides, group size, and what changes from day to day

The tour is led in English by a local guide who drives and shares information about geology, local stories, and the route. Guides vary by departure. Sarah, Eddi, Tomasz, and other guides have led recent trips, but you should not book expecting a particular person.

A good guide matters here. The Highlands are remote, and the drive itself calls for care. Strong guides have helped make the day by explaining the rocks and places along the way, choosing viewpoints, and offering alternatives for the hike. A few people have had trouble hearing commentary over the vehicle’s noise or wished for more explanation, so the spoken detail may vary.

The small group and flexible time at Landmannalaugar are useful advantages. The guide can give you a sense of the route and then let you decide how to spend part of the stop. Photo assistance is included, along with Wi-Fi and USB ports on board, though neither replaces a charged phone or camera.

Is $210 good value for this day?

At $210 per person, this is not a cheap outing, but the price covers a full 11-hour day, Reykjavík pickup and drop-off, four-wheel-drive transport, a guide, a guided hike, and stops at three distinct sites. Reaching Landmannalaugar independently requires suitable transport for Highland roads, so the tour can be especially good value if you do not have access to a four-wheel-drive vehicle.

The biggest part of what you are paying for is access. The drive is long, and the roads are rough, but the vehicle carries you into a part of Iceland that is difficult to reach in an ordinary rental car. Add the guided walk and the hot-pool stop, and the fare buys more than a ride to a viewpoint.

Food and drinks are not included. Bring lunch, snacks, and water from Reykjavík, since you should not count on a meal being supplied during the day. A daypack helps keep your rain gear, gloves, camera, and swim kit close at hand.

Who should book this trip?

I would choose this tour if you want a first taste of the Highlands without arranging your own four-wheel-drive transport, and you are happy to spend a full day on the road for a few hours in a remarkable place. It suits people who enjoy easy-to-moderate walking, volcanic geology, waterfalls, and the simple pleasure of a hot soak after a hike.

It is less suitable if you need a smooth ride, dislike long excursions, or want a full day of serious hiking. The tour is not suitable for children under 10 or wheelchair users. Weather can also change the hiking experience, so bring rain gear, gloves, and outdoor layers even if Reykjavík looks calm at departure.

Book it if Landmannalaugar is high on your Iceland wish list and you want transport, a guided walk, and a hot pool folded into one day. Skip it if the bumpy road and long ride sound like a poor trade for a few hours in the Highlands. Either way, pack lunch, a towel, hiking shoes, and a working mobile phone with data access.

FAQ

How long is the tour?

The tour lasts about 11 hours, including pickup and drop-off in Reykjavík and stops along the route.

What time does pickup begin?

Be ready at 7:30 a.m. The minibus may take up to 30 minutes to arrive, depending on the distance from its starting point.

What is included in the price?

The tour includes Reykjavík pickup and drop-off in a comfortable four-wheel-drive vehicle, an English-speaking guide, a guided hike, scenic stops, photo assistance, Wi-Fi, and USB ports.

Is food included?

No. Food and drinks are not included, so bring your own lunch, snacks, and water.

How long is the hike at Landmannalaugar?

The guided hike through the Laugahraun obsidian field toward Brennisteinsalda takes about two hours.

Can I skip the guided hike?

Yes. You can explore the area on your own within the time available or spend longer at the natural hot pool, following the guide’s timing.

What should I bring for the hot pool?

Bring a swimsuit and towel. They are not included with the tour.

Is the tour suitable for young children or wheelchair users?

The tour is not suitable for children under 10 or wheelchair users.